Accomplished! Puig Campana's Central Spur, 300m, V

This climb was actually succeeded a week ago today. Good friend, climbing partner, and mentor, Pacho Perini was with me to split the work. This is a classic climb of the Valencian Community and also one of the longest climbs.

Upon arriving on Friday night we slept under the stars and woke up at 6am to hydrate, eat, and prepare our gear. We left the car sometime around 7am and arrived at the base of the route with 3 ladies, all about the age of my Mom, or older! Having noticed that they weren't quite roped up and prepared to climb, I asked if I could go ahead and climb. The skinny old lady of the group with an experienced look (obviously leading) responded, "Are you a fast climber?"

She let me go on the condition that if she caught up with me, that I would let her pass. Needless to say, as I was building the first anchor, she was moving up right past me!!!

3 old ladies flew by us on the first pitch, here's proof!

Originally this climb can be done in 9 pitches with a 60m rope, however, we were able to link up 7 pitches with a 70m rope. Pacho led pitch 2 and linked pitch 3, while later I linked pitches 8 & 9. During pitches 2 & 3 we constantly veered to the right towards the start of the spur. I led pitch 4 onto the spur over easy terrain.

Once on the spur, the climbing really gets good. Big moves, excellent holds, easy climbing and very enjoyable. Pacho led pitch 5 up an open chimney with one V grade move but very easily protected and great foot placements. At the anchor we organized gear and I led pitch 6, which in my opinion was the coolest pitch of the whole route. Characterized by a thin crack continued through 20 meters, it made for some great moves and bomber pro with medium size stoppers.

Placing the first piece on P6.

Pacho led pitch 7 and commited to a huge run out on unstable rock. As I yelled "protect" he began to position himself below a small tree. I as seconded the pitch, I was pretty impressed. Yet, personally, I would have placed a few pieces or slings because something is always better than nothing.

Following up pitch 7 and excited to see that we are finishing the route.

I led the final to pitches in one push, over 1 move in grade V and as I reached the final anchor, it felt great. There is a huge tree at the top of this route where we resorted from the sun and debated on whether to summit which involves scrambling to the base of three more pitches rated V+ named Edward's Finish. We would have to climb and find our way back down, as we had no information about the descent from the summit. Considering it was very hot and we were essentially out of water and without information. Pacho made the final decision to scramble down the known route of descent.

Be aware that the descent is just as dangerous (or even moreso) as the ascent. It took us 1.5 hours to descend scrambling over loose rock with passes in the III grade and sliding, falling, and skating over a wide rock coulior that feeds to the base of the south face of Puig Campana.

Finally we reached the car, took a picture and headed down to the town water fountain to cool off before going into Benidorm to get our fill.

Puig Campana!!

Photos courtesy of Pacho Perini