Monsieur 6b+/A0 (5.10d YDS), 7 pitches of sport climbing in Montanejos

Alex and I have been trying to plan a multipitch sport climb for at least the last 3 months. Everytime we get around to it, something comes up. A buddy wants to tag along, so we do something with a little less commitment, or the weather's not right, or we've just got other things to do. But last Saturday it all came together. We had originally planned to do Argos in Orihuela, a semi-protected route consisting of 5 pitches graded 6a on the Pared Negra. However, a last minute check of the weather produced a negative result. We changed gears and decided to do something a little more difficult but, as a friend of ours told us, much better protected. Bolted all the way up.



We had the gas tank full and hit the road at 7am out of Sagunto. Arriving in Montanejos at 8:05, the town bank marked the temp. at -1ºC. We stopped at the only open cafe in town, had a coffee and a bathroom break and began our approach from the old rural house (across the creek from the new rural house or refugio). Passing the initiation sector and underneath the single-pitch routes of Xulo Panderas, we arrived at the base of the Wall of Agualcil. From here there are two ways to get to the base of the Monsieur. You can climb 30m to the base of the Agualcil (II) and keep traversing until you reach the largest tree on the far left hand side of the wall or you can follow the creek until you reach a large canal on your right hand side. This canal leads up to the same large pine tree at the base of the Monsieur.







Now we climb. I led the first pitch graded 5+. Great pitch to start. Easy moves, obvious holds. Hands burned with pain from the freezing cold but by the time I reached the first anchor, I was warmed up and the sun was peeking through the clouds.


Alex led the following pitch graded 6a+ and I followed. We both commented that it was an easy 6a+. With our light pack and hauling the full length of our second rope, the moves on the second pitch were just as easy as the first. Keeping our momentum, I led the third pitch. Again, rated 6a, it could have easily been a 5 or 5+. At this point, we had the sun on our backs and it felt good. Finally a break in the clouds to warm up a bit and sit to have a bite before the second part of the climb.

Upon coming out of the first part, we arrive at a large natural balcony. One meter from the anchor that you see in the picture above, there is a cable to guide us to the base of the second part of the climb. Having climbed easy grey limestone for the first three pitches, looking up the next 4 pitches can be intimidating. The first pitch is rated 6b+ and the anchor is hard to spot but located underneath a huge overhang.

We were able to knock out pitch 4 with a couple of moves in A0. At around 90º, the moves on pitch 4 were no doubt 6b+. Alex led this pitch with grace and progressed slowly between bolts, resting and planning the next move. Only once did I see him tug on a bolt over the most exposed and inclined move on the pitch. I followed the pitch and struggled quite a bit due to a bad decision I made when I left the van. I chose to bring my trad shoes instead of my technical climbing shoes which don't grab the rock as well and slip on steep limestone. Slipping my way up, I mostly pulled myself up the tough moves by my arms leaving me exhausted by the time I reached the anchor point.

We were excited to get to this anchor because we knew from here we could easily make it. With only 3 more pitches between us and the anchor point and the tough moves conquered, it was in the bag! I led pitch 5. A really nice splitter exited the anchor and ran out 3 bolts up onto easier ground. At around 50º, pitch 5 was a nice rest after the exhausting pitch 4. It traversed underneath the red overhang and provided us with excellent views of the valley. Alex took advantage of the easy ground and took some pictures.

Pitch 6 & 7 went by in a heart beat. Coming out of pitch 6 we followed a big crack onto the final wall of the climb. Both easy grades, we alternated finishing the route and we were both kings of Montanejos for brief moments while we celebrated on top of the Monsieur.

And I leave you with some technical details:

Material: Double/twin rope 60m (or two sport ropes) for rapping purposes only, set of stoppers, 2 cams, 12 draws, and 2 slings.


Cheers!