Mountain es Vida
Blog about a life of adventures in the mountains.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Learning to Climb ... Again ... on granite cracks
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Accomplished! Puig Campana's Central Spur, 300m, V
3 old ladies flew by us on the first pitch, here's proof!
Once on the spur, the climbing really gets good. Big moves, excellent holds, easy climbing and very enjoyable. Pacho led pitch 5 up an open chimney with one V grade move but very easily protected and great foot placements. At the anchor we organized gear and I led pitch 6, which in my opinion was the coolest pitch of the whole route. Characterized by a thin crack continued through 20 meters, it made for some great moves and bomber pro with medium size stoppers.
Placing the first piece on P6.
Pacho led pitch 7 and commited to a huge run out on unstable rock. As I yelled "protect" he began to position himself below a small tree. I as seconded the pitch, I was pretty impressed. Yet, personally, I would have placed a few pieces or slings because something is always better than nothing.
Following up pitch 7 and excited to see that we are finishing the route.
I led the final to pitches in one push, over 1 move in grade V and as I reached the final anchor, it felt great. There is a huge tree at the top of this route where we resorted from the sun and debated on whether to summit which involves scrambling to the base of three more pitches rated V+ named Edward's Finish. We would have to climb and find our way back down, as we had no information about the descent from the summit. Considering it was very hot and we were essentially out of water and without information. Pacho made the final decision to scramble down the known route of descent.
Be aware that the descent is just as dangerous (or even moreso) as the ascent. It took us 1.5 hours to descend scrambling over loose rock with passes in the III grade and sliding, falling, and skating over a wide rock coulior that feeds to the base of the south face of Puig Campana.
Finally we reached the car, took a picture and headed down to the town water fountain to cool off before going into Benidorm to get our fill.
Puig Campana!!
Photos courtesy of Pacho PeriniTuesday, May 10, 2011
From Limestone Paradise to Granite Heaven
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Cuchillares de Contreras: Coin Tower (Torreon de la Moneda), V, 170m: Preparing for Puig Campana
We started out on the hike at 8:40 in the morning and took our time approaching the climb as there was plenty to see and plenty of pictures to take. The approach is very easy as the trail is wide and flat. In the afternoon as we wandered back to the van, entire families and mountain bikers were touring the area, yet in the morning we were all to ourselves with great views of the Cuchillares. It reminded me of pictures from the Torres in Patagonia and I began to call the area, Valencia's little Chatlen.
Approach cont.:
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Penyagolosa's South Spur, IV, 125m: Preparing for Puig Campana
After hanging out at the top for a half hour, we hiked down the sloping north face of Penyagolosa and made a round trip to the van in a total of 3.5 hours, lots of rest stops included. After sorting out the gear, we were back at home with our loved ones by 5PM. I count it as a great climb for those learning to trad climb. It has all the proper dangers too, like falling, loose rock, which is common here on Valencian, limestone trad routes, so wear your helmet.
Preparing for Puig Campana's Central Spur (400m, V)
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Moncayo: Alpinism in Zaragoza
Taking advantage of the latest snow and a good weather window, we went to Moncayo. We managed to climb the Needle of Moncayo (V + 25 m). The route is equipped with bolts, but you only have 5 on the route so it might be necessary to take a cam or two or have mastered the grade. Another thing that makes it interesting are the winter conditions, ice, water and snow falling constantly from the sun and climbing with crampons and wet hands. For a moment it was like we were in the Pyrenees or Alps. And we were only in Zaragoza!
After rappelling, we would not leave without crowning the peak, right? We scurried up for very easy summit!
I encourage you to go for if you have not been for a fun weekend.
Health and Mountain.
Namaste!