Learning to Climb ... Again ... on granite cracks

It's been a while since I have written of my adventures, mainly because I have been getting out there relatively less. Mostly because new climbing partners are hard to find. Here in the legendary Yosemite Valley, everyone is a climber, yet they already have their climbing buddy, or they don't have the same days off work as I do, or perhaps they are just too busy with other stuff, like drinking beer (a common Yosemite pastime, especially among climbers, hehe).

Swan Slab - Source: mountainproject.com

Last week I was lucky enough to run into this guy from the bay area named Ryan. Climbing on the slabs at Swan slab by himself, obviously testing out some new climbing shoes just a few feet off the ground, I asked him if he had a climbing harness and wanted to do something a little more exciting. He quickly responded with a "yes" and "yes". As we were about to rope up, I noticed that I didn't have climbing shoes. What a bummer!! We exchanged numbers with the hope that I might get a call to go climbing. As it turns out, the next day, I spotted Ryan around the same spot and we quickly roped up to do the two pitches on Oak Tree Flake rated 5.6. With kind remarks all around, we went for a beer to plan this weeks meeting.

Chouinard Crack on Glacier Point Apron - Source: Supertopo.com, Chris McNamara

Yesterday we tore up the Glacier Point apron by climbing the best 5.8s on the wall, like Harry Daley and the Chouinard Crack. Both excellent, classic Yosemite crack climbing. Also counting our warm up on the Goblet, we put together 6 pitches before noon. Of course, having hardly climbed on real granite and sustained cracks, Ryan led all of the 5.8s which was perfect for me to get some practice in crack climbing.

Today we met again to climb the Five Open Books next to Yosemite Falls via the easy Munginella rated 5.6. I would give it a french rating of 4+ for it's steep finish with big holds. One might consider giving it a V french rating but after all we are in Yosemite Valley and well, lets just say the rating system is quite peculiar.

Yours truly at the first stance on Munginella, Upper Yosemite Falls way up there

The climb produced another great view of Yosemite Valley from the north side about mid-way up Yosemite Falls.

Accomplished! Puig Campana's Central Spur, 300m, V

This climb was actually succeeded a week ago today. Good friend, climbing partner, and mentor, Pacho Perini was with me to split the work. This is a classic climb of the Valencian Community and also one of the longest climbs.

Upon arriving on Friday night we slept under the stars and woke up at 6am to hydrate, eat, and prepare our gear. We left the car sometime around 7am and arrived at the base of the route with 3 ladies, all about the age of my Mom, or older! Having noticed that they weren't quite roped up and prepared to climb, I asked if I could go ahead and climb. The skinny old lady of the group with an experienced look (obviously leading) responded, "Are you a fast climber?"

She let me go on the condition that if she caught up with me, that I would let her pass. Needless to say, as I was building the first anchor, she was moving up right past me!!!

3 old ladies flew by us on the first pitch, here's proof!

Originally this climb can be done in 9 pitches with a 60m rope, however, we were able to link up 7 pitches with a 70m rope. Pacho led pitch 2 and linked pitch 3, while later I linked pitches 8 & 9. During pitches 2 & 3 we constantly veered to the right towards the start of the spur. I led pitch 4 onto the spur over easy terrain.

Once on the spur, the climbing really gets good. Big moves, excellent holds, easy climbing and very enjoyable. Pacho led pitch 5 up an open chimney with one V grade move but very easily protected and great foot placements. At the anchor we organized gear and I led pitch 6, which in my opinion was the coolest pitch of the whole route. Characterized by a thin crack continued through 20 meters, it made for some great moves and bomber pro with medium size stoppers.

Placing the first piece on P6.

Pacho led pitch 7 and commited to a huge run out on unstable rock. As I yelled "protect" he began to position himself below a small tree. I as seconded the pitch, I was pretty impressed. Yet, personally, I would have placed a few pieces or slings because something is always better than nothing.

Following up pitch 7 and excited to see that we are finishing the route.

I led the final to pitches in one push, over 1 move in grade V and as I reached the final anchor, it felt great. There is a huge tree at the top of this route where we resorted from the sun and debated on whether to summit which involves scrambling to the base of three more pitches rated V+ named Edward's Finish. We would have to climb and find our way back down, as we had no information about the descent from the summit. Considering it was very hot and we were essentially out of water and without information. Pacho made the final decision to scramble down the known route of descent.

Be aware that the descent is just as dangerous (or even moreso) as the ascent. It took us 1.5 hours to descend scrambling over loose rock with passes in the III grade and sliding, falling, and skating over a wide rock coulior that feeds to the base of the south face of Puig Campana.

Finally we reached the car, took a picture and headed down to the town water fountain to cool off before going into Benidorm to get our fill.

Puig Campana!!

Photos courtesy of Pacho Perini

From Limestone Paradise to Granite Heaven

So the time has come for me to say goodbye to Spain, a limestone paradise. Most likely not forever, I'm sure there will be plenty of return trips to visit family and unforgettable friends. Still, there are so many things I will miss about this country in which I have lived for more than a fifth of my life. The beach, the never failing sun, seafood, paellas, all night and all day parties, world-class wine, 3pm siestas, endless sport climbing, and that famously optimistic "no-pasa-nada" attitude.

However, in life we must all work to make a living, have a family, and try to provide your family with more than what your family had provided you growing up. That is the way I was raised anyway.... sadly enough, after 5 years of trying, I doubt Spain can provide me that opportunity. So I will be moving back to the United States, to where I call home and to where I can be close to my family and hopefully have that opportunity. Furthermore, if karma or god or whatever exists, I was looked upon well for I will be going to granite heaven, Yosemite California!!

I will be embarking on a new career in the National Park Service, working for the US government will all its perks and downsides but with means to an end. I will start out as a Visitor Use Assistant at Yosemite's Big Oak Flat entrance attending to entrance fees, campground monitoring, visitor assistance, etc. etc. Dad is in Yosemite Valley only a mere 45 mins away.

I consider it a once in a lifetime opportunity, and I have no option but to make the most of it.

Cuchillares de Contreras: Coin Tower (Torreon de la Moneda), V, 170m: Preparing for Puig Campana

This outing was extremely fun and full of errors. With that said, the climb took us way too long and we got lost on the way down. Sure we are to blame for our own errors, but the only guides available for this route are old and description scarce.

In this entry, I hope to shed some light on this excellent climb with a true alpinism spirit only 1 hours drive from Valencia city. Furthermore, you will find proper information to guide you on your climb of the Torreon de la Moneda, what I will otherwise call in English the Coin Tower.

**Be aware that in the Parque Natural de Hoces de Cabriel, it is prohibited to rock climb on the Cuenca side (or right side) of the river, limiting your opportunities to the Valencian side of the park which include Alto de Contreras & Torreon de la Moneda**

Again our customary access to the park and excellent bivi takes place in my VW California. We slept long and well after some hot pasta and a good chat over white wine.

We started out on the hike at 8:40 in the morning and took our time approaching the climb as there was plenty to see and plenty of pictures to take. The approach is very easy as the trail is wide and flat. In the afternoon as we wandered back to the van, entire families and mountain bikers were touring the area, yet in the morning we were all to ourselves with great views of the Cuchillares. It reminded me of pictures from the Torres in Patagonia and I began to call the area, Valencia's little Chatlen.

During the approach, we walked throughout the Cuenca side of the park finding old cragging grounds. Here you can see the top quality continuous limestone cracks that we once climbed only a few meters from the trail (according to some, folks used to drive right up to the bottom of the one-pitchers). Following the old crags, a huge limestone wall full of crests and fine ridges that offer infinite possibilities for climbing.

Our objective gets closer and closer........

North face of Coin Tower and Alto de Contreras

As you turn the corner, one of the most outstanding towers to climb in the entire park and sadly enough prohibited, is the Cabriel Tower (Torre de Cabriel) which towers in front of Coin tower with about 7 established routes, 1 of those routes was done entirely by aid climbing. The only half-way realiable information out there about this climbing area can be found in Spanish at: http://www.malditoduende.net/Cuchillarcontreras/Zonas.html

East Face of Cabriel Tower

After passing under Cabriel Tower, we passed under a tunel and finally arriving the the most characteristic passing in all of my mountaineering experiences: the plank-less steel bridge. From here I will officially outline the climbing guide for the west ridge of Coin Tower.

Climbing Guide: Coin Tower (Torreon de la Moneda), West Ridge, V, 170m

Access:

From Valencia take A-3 in direction Madrid until you reach the exit for Villargordo de Cabriel, exit and go towards town until you reach the sign for N-III Minglanilla, take that direction until you reach a easily missed intersection to access the Puerto de Contreras. Turn here and follow the road until you pass the camping, bungalows, and bar on your right hand side. You have the option of sleeping there or if you have a van, keep going until you reach a sign that directs you to the Multiaventura area. Turn there and follow the road until you reach two large pillars that mark the entrance to the multiaventura grounds. You may want to sleep

off their ground and drive in to their parking in the morning to avoid the local guard.

Approach:

The approach is detailed in the above lines of this blog entry. Start out at the multiaventura parking and haul your gear about 30-45mins following the trail that leads to the obvious steel bridge. Once at the steel bridge, be cool like everyone else and cross it with only one hand (actually two hands is the safest way).

Approach cont.:

Once you cross the unmissable steel bridge follow the right hand side of the rock wall, following the wall upwards through thick brush until you reach an area where you can make 180 to your left. Be aware that you will have to bushwack. Once you take a left, work your way finding the trail that leads to the base of the climb. You will know when you are close when you see an old plate that reads "Amic i Co" and a few bolts up the right hand side of the wall. Our route actually begins further to the left of this route in a big splitter.

The climb (in french grade):

At the base of the splitter, its easy III, yet I would suggest roping up here to save time once your in the game.

Pitch 1: Climb up the wide splitter and over a few boulders (IV) tending to your right until you reach a flat canal that walks up to two bolts facing the west with two rap rings in them.

Pitch 2: Here you have two options, yet either option is an awkward V grade move until you reach a bolt that leads to IV grade. Option 1 - take the right side and place some pro in the diedre to move up two big moves on friction and reach around to your left to find the bolt and swing back into the original route. Option 2 - Climb straight up the crack where you will find a loose area to place pro and is obviously unsafe to climb with your partner right underneath the loosly hanging rock (hence the reason I opted for option 1).

Keep moving up easy IV grade crack and enjoy until you reach a single bolt with a huge rock on your left, don't be fooled, this is not your stance, keep on going towards your right and over the bolt to your left you will find two bolts together, again with a rap ring. This is the end of pitch two.

Pitch 3: The most beautiful and exposed pitch of the climb and also the longest pitch of the climb. Out of the stance, climb on easy ground towards your left but in the direction of a huge round bush. About at the height of the bush you will find a bolt, clip in, keep going. Webbing, clib in and keep on higher until you reach a bulge. Here you can slip in a cam and in an arms length you will find a old reliable piton. Have faith and push over this move (V) on top of the bulge, nicely protected. After a body's length you will find a nice rock bridge to sling up in your right hand. Keep on until you reach an overhanging area, here you can place pro. Move to your left, place pro, and up and then you'll see the final stance where there are two bolts hanging over the void.

Pitch 4: From here it's easy III grade climbing until you reach the crest. At the crest there are two more bolts facing the west and a very comfortable stance.

Pitch 5 & 6: Climb along the crest of the tower and protect your moves where you can. Be careful for loose rock and bad pro. These two pitches put together sum up to about 80 meters, so unless you have a long rope, the leader will have to set up a stance over two huge boulders laying together with a small tree at about 55 meters or simul-climb until you reach a single bolt on the very top of the Tower! SUMMIT.

Descent: Follow the crest down white flat blocks, downclimbing very carefully (or you can opt to rap this section from the single bolt where we left a rap ring, except we made the error of rapping down the wrong side of the crest and straight into a canal on the west side of the tower - the wrong side). Moving down the blocks look for a large tree on your left side. The tree will be sitting over two bolts and chain with a proper rap ring to set up a long, overhanging rappel. This rap is right at 30 meters so, dont take a 50 meter rope on this climb unless you have a two 50 meter ropes. This is the east side of the crest that leaves you in a cool air, beautiful canal with walls on both sides full of vines.

Once you are in the canal of vines, follow the only way down in the direction of the river. Keep going and tend to your left until you have reached the stance that was your first anchor point during the ascent. From these two bolts you will rap to a tree and from the tree make another short rap to the base of the climb. Grab your gear and make a dash back to the car.

Photos courtesy of Pacho Perini

Penyagolosa's South Spur, IV, 125m: Preparing for Puig Campana

This past Friday night, experienced mountaineer Pacho Perini and I headed up to Castellon's Penyagolosa for an easy, 3 pitch trad climb to start preparing for an attack on Puig Campana's South Spur. We made dinner and opened a bottle of wine to settle in the van for the night.

After spending the night in the VW California, on Saturday morning we did the 1 hour hike to the base of the south ridge. The trail led us over the a pass called Portellas where the wind cooled us off and made for a few good pics.

Pacho and I on Portellas

We took advantage of the African winds that are making its way to producing Summer here in the Mediterranean. Took advantage we did! 18 degrees C. and little wind. It made for a great day climbing and I even got a little sunburn!

It was easy to miss the base of the climb as Pacho walked right by the gully that led to the first pitch. I called to him and said hey it's here!! We climbed up the gully just a bit to where there is an obvious balcony where the climb starts. There we found another pair on the first pitch.

So as the other pair make their way up to the first stance, our fun begins. The only real move on the whole route is the first one. An easy IV move up a few limestone cracks with ledges to place your feet. From there, the climb is super easy III that can easily be done without a rope. But since we are practicing placing pro, managing rope and moving quickly, we climb with a rope and I lead all 3 pitches as for Pacho enjoyed taking it extra easy going second, and checking my placements.

Coming out of the first stance.

On a huge ledge building an anchor with a single bolt already placed.

So we eventually reached the top stance where we made the short scramble to the top of Penyagolosa, disputed as the highest peak in the Valencian Community.

From the peak of Penyagolosa, you can see a two other shorter climbs (2 pitches) that are quite interesting. One that starts on the left and move on the right rated 6b, with bolts, called "La Mar de Calamar". Another starts on the right and goes left under two suspended blocks rated V+, without bolts, named "Carambano". Both routes share the anchor point and, according to one of the locals, there are bolts at the top of the route.

After hanging out at the top for a half hour, we hiked down the sloping north face of Penyagolosa and made a round trip to the van in a total of 3.5 hours, lots of rest stops included. After sorting out the gear, we were back at home with our loved ones by 5PM. I count it as a great climb for those learning to trad climb. It has all the proper dangers too, like falling, loose rock, which is common here on Valencian, limestone trad routes, so wear your helmet.

Details:

Take a light rack. Small cams and a set of stoppers.

Helmet required.

6 draws.

All fotos courtesy of Pacho Perini.

Route lines added by yours truely.

This weekend we are headed to the Coin Tower. Expect a report SOON!!

Preparing for Puig Campana's Central Spur (400m, V)

Rock climbing is a sport of systems and objectives. The systems are what get you to your objectives and my next objective is to climb the 9 pitches of Puig Campana's Central Spur (including Edwards finish 3 pitches more) before May 28th.

Here in this picture you can count the pitches, yet to reach the summit, you must go by Edward's Finish, add on a few more.

There are several hurdles I must jump to be able to meet my goal. First, I must try to keep myself in as good physical shape as possible while juggling the demands of my very demanding job. Its Thursday and I have already worked more than 40 hours. However, I have been able to run on Tues. and Thurs. morning and on Mon. I was able to squeeze in some abs and push-up (100 each). Second, I must work my way up to trad climbing comfortably. I have only been out trad climbing less than 10 times, and less than 5 of those on lead. So I must concentrate on placing the right gear the first time and moving quickly and safely. Third, putting the these together, work my way up to 12 pitches. This includes one of the most important factors, handling the rope correctly and efficiently.

So I have a game plan. First, the South Spur of Penyagolosa (IV, 125m), then the West Ridge of Coin Tower (Torreon de la Moneda, V, 270m), afterwards it will be difficult to find a proper route closer to home, perhaps I'll travel south to Mascarat link up the trad/sport route "Llobert/Bertomeu", V+ 250m consisting of 7 pitches, or the mostly clean Pertemba Spur, V+, 300m, consisting of 9 pitches in .....

Perhaps after all this, I'll be able to take on Ponoig's classic "Via Valencianos" 6a, 400m in 13 pitches!!

Moncayo: Alpinism in Zaragoza

This is a short report from http://secciomuntanyacev.blogspot.com/ of my most recent excursion to Mt. Moncayo in Zaragoza written by a fellow member of the Mountaineers club in Valencia, Ivan (translated from Spanish).

Hi mates, here are some photos of last Sunday's activity.
Taking advantage of the latest snow and a good weather window, we went to Moncayo. We managed to climb the Needle of Moncayo (V + 25 m). The route is equipped with bolts, but you only have 5 on the route so it might be necessary to take a cam or two or have mastered the grade. Another thing that makes it interesting are the winter conditions, ice, water and snow falling constantly from the sun and climbing with crampons and wet hands. For a moment it was like we were in the Pyrenees or Alps. And we were only in Zaragoza!
After rappelling, we would not leave without crowning the peak, right? We scurried up for very easy summit!
I encourage you to go for if you have not been for a fun weekend.
Health and Mountain.
Namaste!

Find out more about the moncayo here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moncayo_(mountain)

Cheers!